Restaurant Review: La Isla Bonita

Sandwiched between a tattoo shop and the unforgiving speed and lack of attention of Ulmerton Road, La Isla Bonita (9033 Ulmerton Rd, Largo, FL 33771-5312, (727) 588-0338) is a promising taste of latin flavors at reasonable prices that may soon be gone. Their location, both too expensive and hard to find, keeps the foot traffic low. In the few times I’ve been there, even during the weekday lunch hour, there’s never anyone there but the staff. When I walk in, I’m always greeted warmly and the owner stays enthusiastic while making my lunch, even as he explains how he’s about to go under if he doesn’t move to a better location. I  sincerely hope they do, as their food is top notch, their service is good and the owner’s candid and friendly approach make this a great little place to eat.

This is traditional latin island food including slow roasted pork, chicken and beef served with rice, beans and shells. The food is distinctly Puerto Rican, and they obviously put a great deal of time into the slow cooking process that makes the meats so tender and juicy. During my photo shoot day, I ordered two tacos with pulled pork and a beef burrito.

The Tacos come loaded with tomatoes and lettuce over pork, filling the cream-slathered shell. They’re succulent and dripping, a bit salty but overall very flavorful. They are small, as far as tacos go, so you’ll want atleast two. The burrito is actually quite large and filled with meat and vegetables. No salsa is needed, as the steaming process that they use to keep the meat hot adds a good deal of moisture without zapping out the flavor.

The price is reasonable at La Isla Bonita. My whole meal, including two tacos, a burrito and a drink were under $15. Assuming Bonita makes it past the recession and gets some bodies in seats, it promises to be a Largo favorite. I just hope others don’t dismiss it because of it’s poor location and blink-and-you-miss-it store front.

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