All Entries in the "American Cuisine" Category
Restaurant Review: Pizza Uno
It’s not often that I’m frustrated with a name I know and trust in the restaurant business. I found a perfect example of that frustration in Largo’s own Pizza Uno (12561 Ulmerton Rd, Largo, FL 33774-3629, (727) 517-0111), a mockery of the name made famous in Chicago for awesome pizza and otherwise amazing food. For anyone who has been to Chicago and has tried the real Pizza Uno, you know that everything on their menu is excellent. The food is hot, fresh and plentiful. The atmosphere is jubilant, fun and welcoming. It’s a genuinely fun place to be. Then there’s Largo’s interpretation, a completely different experience all together.
We’ll start with the actual building itself. A little place with one table as the dining room is hardly the atmosphere I came to know and love from the Uno name. When you enter the small dining area, you’re immediately met with a counter, a bare wall and a bad attitude. Even when they are not busy, the three men in the background seem grouchy, either ignoring their customers all together or snapping at them when they go to order. I was immediately put off by their attitude and the dull and uninviting nature of the restaurant.
I decided to order a philly steak sandwich, as it’s generally universally impossible to mess up philly steak. Begrudgingly, the guy behind the counter took my order said, “Give me 5 minutes”. I sat down and waited. 17 minutes later, he arrived with my white carryout container with a sandwich in it. Never once did he ask if I wanted to eat it here, or wanted a drink. He simply assumed that this would be a to-go and sent me on my way. I accepted, as just being here was making me uncomfortable.
The sandwich was absolutely everything I hate about the fast food industry. Firstly, the sandwich itself was smaller than I expected. When I pay close to $10 for a sandwich, I expect a foot long with lots of content. What I got was maybe 9″ of sandwich with dried out bread, tough meat and a disguising layer of cheese which was fooling no one.
The included pickle had no snap, no crunch. It was warm and lacked much flavor. The steak, even after grinding it with my tough repeatedly, was difficult to chew. It was as if they had some steak left over from the night before and just tossed it into a hoagie. Overall, very disappointing.
While I’m sure they aren’t connected to the famous Pizza Uno, it’s important to note that so others don’t make the same mistake I did. Lousy attitude, lousier food and no bargain, Pizza Uno is largo is the kind of crap I avoid all together.
Restaurant Review: Pop N Sons Diner
If you’re looking for old fashioned cooking in a fun 50s car themed environment Pop N Sons (4812 N Dale Mabry Hwy, Tampa, FL 33614-6510, (813) 875-9005) may be the perfect mix of nostalgia and home cooking. The food is your typical greasy spoon menu, complete with a robust breakfast, burgers, sandwiches and home cooked favorites. Pops N Sons is easy to find too, directing you from Dale Mabry with it’s lit arrow, a callback to 1950s’s classic red and white Americana marketing that can be seen throughout the restaurant.
The restaurant is more than just food and fond memories, as there are car shows and other events held here regularly. On the 1st and 3rd Wednesday of the month, a classic car show is help that often brings out 100 or more cars.
Since I was there for breakfast, I decided to order the Ham Steak. The waitress advised me, “That’s a big piece of ham, you know. You may be taking some with you.” I felt I was up to the challenge. The food arrived in about 10 minutes, just enough time for me to fully take in all of the neon wall art and the packed dining room.
The ham steak really was as big as she said. I’m guestimating the platter at 12″ x 8″ and it filled the whole platter at about a 1/4″ thick. This bone-in ham was deliciously cooked with just enough blackened spots to bring the sweet ham some sizzle. The eggs and hashbrowns I ordered with it are pretty standard for a diner like this. The chef got the over-easy call on the eggs right and whatever oil they cook the potatoes in was flavorful. I’d imagine their pans or skillet are good and seasoned from so many years of cooking this great comfort food that everything tastes a bit like everything made before it. I’m definitely not complaining.
Restaurant Review: Cheddar’s
I had been to the Cheddars in Clearwater, but never been to the one in Brandon (11135 Causeway Blvd, Brandon, FL 33511, (813) 653-7770) until recently. The one in Clearwater was acceptable, but I’d never call it “good food”. The one in Brandon managed to change my mind about that.
Dustan and I decided to go because we were in the mood for something plainly American on a lazy Saturday afternoon. While hunting for a Wing House, we passed Cheddars and noticed they weren’t that busy. Thus, my second attempt at Cheddars began. When we came to the front door, we were immediately greeted by a friendly set of people who sat us immediately.
The restaurant was actually a lot busier than I had thought, but we were still seated right away. I noticed as I walked through the dining area that this neat fan was installed facing the skylight. This was a step up form what I expected in a place like this, and it added a touch of rustic charm.
Since Dustan and I were both hungry, we ordered an appetizer, the kind of Combo Plate that gives you a bit of everything. This cornucopia of bar food included some fried chicken tenders, potato skins and large single-slice nachos. It’s important to note that the platter these come on is quite large and this is probably enough to feed two people by itself, but we proceeded with this and entrees as well.
The appetizers were good enough. Potato skins were a little rubbery and greasy, but otherwise the tray had a nice balance of meaty and pronounced flavors without being too fatty or too dry. The nachos were actually quite dense and heavy, thanks to a hefty layer of cheese over a hefty layer of beef. The chicken tenders, thick with chunks of white meat, came with a honey mustard dipping sauce which pushed them over the top. Very good, especially considering how light the breading was. They were just done enough, not overly fried, not overly oily and still rich in taste.
For my lunch, I decided to go with something that usually terrifies me, the Monte Cristo. Anyone who has ever ordered a Monte Cristo knows that you’ll never get the same sandwich as you ordered last time. Some places deep fry them in pancake dough, others in a light flour. Some coat in powder sugar and serve with a jam or jelly. Others coat in syrup. Some fill with ham, cheese and turkey, some missing one or more of the components. It’s truly an interpretive dish and very few get it the way I like it. Cheddars surpassed my expectations.
Not only did they have all of the meats and cheeses covered, but they used fresh (not crappy processed deli) meats. The cheese were abundant, hot and flowing from the slices. Whatever they used to coat it before frying it made the sandwich light and fluffy and hot, but not crunchy on the outside. The light powder sugar and the raspberry jam on the side were exactly what I was looking for. This way, I can choose how sweet I want it. Despite being very fully less than half way through the sandwich, I was very pleased with it and took the rest home to eat later. The fries it came with were acceptable, but I simply didn’t have room for many of them considering the portion size and the appetizer.
Dustan ordered the country fried steak, something I’ve seen him order many places and complain about in a good portion of them. He says this was very good, including providing enough gravy to cover both the mashed potatoes and the steak itself. The texas toast slice was also good, he remarked.
Restaurant Review: Kathy’s Industrial Mart Sandwich Shop
At Kathy’s Industrial Mart Sandwich Shop (9218 Ulmerton RD Largo, FL 33771. (727) 518-6201), their name is just as much a mouth full as their portions.
Kathy’s is all classic diner, filled with old booths of various colors, pictures all over the walls, random bobbleheads and news clippings throughout. Many of the clippings and powers have to do with New York City, paying homage to firefighters, policemen and famous New Yorkers.
At the recommendation of the counter person, I ordered the Classic Cuban Sandwich and macaroni salad. This simple lunch came in at just under $10 and came out in just under 10 minutes. The cuban was as expected, being creamy and and hot with cheesy goodness throughout with a crunchy cuban bread. The meats were high quality, as I expect from Boar’s Head. This sandwich was also quite good size, around a 14″ in length and 4″ wide.
The real surprise was the Macaroni Salad. While the noodles were what I expected, the substrate of cheese and mayo was very good. They put something in with it to make it a little spicy and very rich tasting. I’ve seen been back to try their Philly Steak (very good!) and their Club Sandwich (also quite good), but always remember to order the Macaroni Salad because it’s that good.
Restaurant Review: Dakota’s Grill & Bar
Dakota’s Grill and Bar (7924 Ulmerton Road, Largo FL 33771, (727) 536-7380) is far more bar than grill, but the sign claims they do both.
If you’re there to watch a game on one of their many televisions, see one of the live bands that play there almost every night or enjoy some beers with friends, it’s your typical sports bar. The staff is attentive if not overly busy most of the time. The atmosphere is lively but not overly crowded. They have a good selection of beers and they’re served cold. If you’re looking for a bar, Dakota’s is a bar first and they do a good job at it.
As for the Grill side of the equation, they’re average at best. I had the Shepard’s Pie, which was not as good as I had expected. The potatoes came out cold. I expect them to be piping hot and filled with meat. The meat itself was your basic taco meat, nothing exceptional. While I expected carrots and corn to overwhelm the dish, there was very little to be seen. The taste was greasy and there wasn’t much else to it than the taste of the taco meat. All and all disappointing, even for bar food.
That said, I’ve been back to Dakota’s a few times since for the drinks and atmosphere and it’s good at being a bar. I’ll just be sure not to confuse myself with the Grill part any further.
Restaurant Review: Boris Family Restaurant
After a pretty crazy morning at work rewiring a bunch of our network, I decided to do lunch at the Boris Family Restaurant (11411 Ulmerton Rd, Largo, FL 33778-1602,(727) 559-7986 ). The whole dining experience is your typical diner, nothing too fancy or overly exciting. It reminds me a lot of the roadside diners I grew up eating at in Michigan, and there’s something comforting about that. The vinyl seating is a little sticky and doesn’t offer much in comfort, but the food is a good value and is pretty good tasting, so this isn’t a bad place to catch a quick bite.
I was in a bit of a hurry, so I ordered what I know to be both quick and tasty, a Reuben Sandwich. They make their Reuben a la carte, everything comes on the side except the meat, cheese and bread. They do this to both give you some options and also to keep the lunch crowd from spilling hot sauces all over themselves. It makes sense, and I like the control.
The sandwich itself is decent, and as to be expected. The rye is butter-soaked all the way through and grilled, making the whole sandwich hot throughout. They don’t use a lot of meat or a lot of sauerkraut, but what they do provide serves the purpose. This isn’t he quality or quantity that you’d find in a New York Style deli, but it’s also substantially less expensive. My whole lunch, including drink and tip was only about $10. French fries and cole slaw were unremarkable, but prepared properly.
Since eating there originally, I’ve gone back twice for the Reuben (both times to go) and it’s been consistently good. Since it’s so close to work I can bet there and back inside of 15 minutes, thus cutting my lunches short and making the most of my 11 hour work day. If you’re in Largo and want quick dining on a budget, give Boris Family Restaurant a try.
Restaurant Review: Mom’s Place
Man, do I love breakfast diners! Mom’s Place (4816 N Dale Mabry Hwy, Tampa, FL 33614-6510, (813) 875-2670) is one of two breakfast diners sharing a parking lot on Dale Mabry, right next to Pop N Sons. This cash only establishment is always packed, meaning you’ll always have to wait for a seat. The service is fast and they have plenty of short order cooks and waitresses on hand, but the sheer popularity of this diner continually draws people in. I knew I had to find out why.
Kara and I went there for breakfast on a Saturday morning, one of their busiest times. Luckily, we were able to get right in. We literally found the last open table that had just been bussed and sat down. Despite the hustle and bustle of people talking and eating all around us, this place has the kind of atmosphere that causes you to just breathe slower, talk a little lower and enjoy the moment. Some might refer to this as “grandma’s syndrome”, as you feel like a lazy Sunday at your grandma’s house.
The waitress came quickly to get our drink order and bring menus. She was your typical mid 50s diner gal, the kind of woman who’s been doing this for so long that she could do it in her sleep. She was so graceful in her movement, pouring coffee here while taking notes there, asking questions she asks dozens of times every hour. It’s this kind of diner automation that’s amazing to watch, and she pulled it off so well.
Kara ordered the Ham Steak and I ordered the Greek Omelette. My Greek Omelette had my favorite (and often neglected) ingredient, gyro meat. In so many places, a Greek Omelette is only feta and vegetables in eggs. It’s pathetic at best. At Mom’s Place, they take Greek to the next level. Gyro, feta, Tzatziki sauce, tomatoes, onions, peppers and potatoes fill the three egg omelette. It’s a hearty breakfast and one I could barely finish. It was flavorful throughout and the side of home fries were exactly as I like them, golden brown on one side and cooked just well enough to be firm but done. This was about as close to a perfect breakfast as I’ve had.
Kara’s breakfast was about as big of a portion of ham as you could ask for, served with two eggs and hashborowns. The ham but they gave was a large steak, probably 1/2″ thick and it filled a whole plate. After she ate all that she could and I ate all that I could from it, there were still scraps left in the plate. There was easily 2 pounds of ham in this serving. Kara commented that the eggs were done well and the hashbrowns were good as well. We left so full that she and I both waddled to the car.
Mom’s Place lives up to it’s name, being the kind of food and atmosphere many of us remember from being a kid at our grandmother’s place, watching her slave over the stove to prepare food just as full of calories and cholesterol as they were full of love. While this food isn’t something I would want to eat every day, it’s something I make a ritual of every Sunday morning, be it at Mom’s or another diner serving similar odes to traditional country breakfast.
Restaurant Review: Widow Brown’s Restaurant
While looking for an out of the way place to get lunch at work last week, I stumbled across Widow Browns (2076 Seminole Blvd, Largo, FL 33778-1713, (727) 584-7084), a country kitchen diner that seemed out of place amongst the big names in fast food that call Ulmerton Road their home less than a half mile away. Being open for anything, I decided to give it a try.
When I walked in, I was immediately met with a mix of smells that is equal parts Cracker Barrel and neighborhood diner. I could smell bacon sizzling and potatoes frying and steak being seered. It was a good smell to walk in to. I was promptly met by a sassy waitress who sat me and came back with my drink order. Service was quick, with a smile and exactly as requested.
I ordered the Philly Chicken sandwich, which came with an option of either fries or salad bar. Knowing I was hungry, I thought the salad bar would make a better choice. As she left to put in my order, I went up to the salad bar and began piling up favorites. The salad bar had all of the standard fair, though none of it seemed overly exciting. I piled up a bit of lettuce with cucumbers, tomatoes, bacon bits, chickpees, onions and italian dressing, sided with some potato salad and cole slaw. I sat down and worked my way through it, unimpressed for the most part. The potato salad was fresh and inviting, though nothing out of the ordinary. The coleslaw was far too watery and looked like it had been out in the sun. The rest of the plate was average, at best.
The philly chicken came quickly and it was better than expected. The chicken chunks are marinaded in something that gives them a slight bite. The grilled onions, peppers and mushrooms perfectly round out the seasoning of the chicken. The one thing they don’t do is provide any kind of sauce, so I put a bit of mayo on the bun and used a fork to distribute the cheese a bit better. This sandwich wasn’t overly greasy or complicated but still remained a very satisfying take on a chicken sandwich I had eaten many times before in many other restaurants.
Widow Brown’s is a decent deal, especially at lunch time. I think my total meal with sandwich, salad bar and soda with tip was under $15. I’m going to make a trip back next week to try their BBQ Chicken and Rib Combo, which the waitress assured me was, “The best you’ll find in Pinellas County.”
Restaurant Review: Yeoman’s Road Pub & Restaurant
A well known little road pub on Davis Island, Yeoman’s (Yeomans Road Restaurant, 236 E Davis Blvd, Tampa, FL. 813-251-2748) brings exotic brews together with large portions of American favorites in a relaxed pub environment.
I’ve been there twice now, firstly for drinks and secondly for the fish and chips. The trip for drinks was with the Miata guys, and it was a good little meet. The environment is surprisingly kid-friendly for a bar, and you get a lot of Davis Island regulars in.
They have all of your standard beers, but a good selection of off-the-wall and hard to find brew. I asked for, “Something amazingly ridiculous” and was presented with a bottle of “La Fin Du Monde”, features an explosion on the label. It was really good! It had the bitter resonance of a much darker beer and was pretty good for the price (around $5). The bartendress even served it to me in a fancy goblet.
The bar itself isn’t just well stocked, but a collection of different artifacts from various cultures. It’s a lot like Boneyard in that respect, and I love it. You’ll see mardi gras style artifacts, beer advertisements, pictures of patrons and more throughout the bar. It’s a very hometown-bar kind of feel with a catalog and inventory to match any big city establishment.
It is a laid back establishment. So laid back that I caught the cook asleep in the back, easily seen from the dining room area.
Everyone there seemed happy and in good spirits.
What can be said about the fish and chips? Pretty darn good. The fish piece they serve is good size, probably atleast a pound. The little lemon wedges do little for flavor or presentation, but it’s good old fashion pub food. The fries are a little dry, but that’s easily fixed by drowning them in ketchup. While not the best fish and chips I’ve ever had, I’d say it was good enough to soak up the excellent beer selection and good company I always find at Yeoman’s.
Restaurant Review: Wild Willies
Wild Willies (13355 Belcher Rd S, Largo, FL 33773-1669, (727) 533-2203) is a lot of things, depending on the time of day and the kind of person you are. By day, it’s a place to get a good burger or other pub food and a beer with your lunch. As the day wears on, it’s part honkytonk and part club. The crowd changes, but Willies stays the same fun place where people go to be fulfilled, be it by spirits or monster burgers.
I’m partial to this pub and grill, if only because one of my co-workers owns it with her husband. At the urging of Courtney, I went there for lunch one day to try their hamburgers. I had all but written off the premium hamburger scene, as it’s so overdone, overpriced and under-delivered. Every time I hear about another premium burger joint coming up with something, I think, “I can make this at home…” and it’s true. Willies broke that barrier for me, as their hamburger is really something to talk about.
While I was waiting for my burger, I tried their cajun peanuts. Imagine a cajun stew or sauce that slow cooks a peanut until it’s shell is so soft that you eat it whole. It’s spicy, but not so spicy that you’ll be running for the water. The texture is very surprising and there’s still a definitive taste of peanut within, though it’s a taste and texture experience I didn’t expect.
The service is quick, especially because we sat at the bar. Burger was out within a few minutes and the sheer scale of this thing is ridiculous. Imagine a big, big patty. I’d say the patty was at least half a pound. Then imagine a fresh kaiser roll, cheese and stacks upon stacks of vegetables. The burger stands taller than it does round, and it’s definitely a handful.
Quality is very high on the burger, owing that quality to fresh meat and cheese. I’d grown so used to eating crappy drive through burgers that I forgot what a real homemade burger tastes like. This one was exceptional. They use just enough cheese too, and it’s piled high with fresh onions, tomatoes and lettuce. Throw in some hot sauce and jalapenos and you have a burger that bites back. Even when compressed down, the burger is too big to put in your mouth.
The burger is incredibly fulfilling, but I forced the fries down too. They were good, but I was so full by the time I got done with the peanuts and burger that I barely got them down.
If you’re looking for more than just food, Willies is the kind of place that you’ll have a good time drinking. The crowd is diverse and everyone is friendly, laced with a soundtrack from Country Classics to the Sex Pistols to new rock. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone there that wasn’t having a good time.
The owner isn’t an absentee landlord. You’ll see him (and his wife Courtney) slinging drinks and mingling with the crowd. They run the kind of joint that keeps the regulars coming back and you can see that in how they react with everyone.
Here’s some photos from a typical Friday night at Wild Willies:
